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December 30, 2005

The Guy on the Roof

The banner image above is a picture taken from my living room window. The statue sits on the roof of a 1920's/30's heading-towards-modernist building on the corner of Bajcsy-Zsilinszky and Bajcsy Köz. I've never been able to find anyone who could tell me the name of the artist, date of completion, or most compellingly, where I could find pictures of the day they hauled him up there -- my photo doesn't provide much context, but he's a significant fellow. It must have been quite a job.

December 29, 2005

The Don Quixote Reading Group

Back in the fall, American historian David McCullough gave a guest lecture at the Central European University here in Budapest. Although I missed the lecture, regrettably, several of my friends attended and came away bearing a message from the Professor: read Don Quixote. Don Q. is the ultimate everyman, the first (and many believe, last) word in dreamy bumbling; he is interred in what is widely considered the original "modern" novel. Professor McCullough reminded his audience that John Adams carried a copy of the great DQ in his saddlebag as he travelled a not-yet-United States before the Revolutionary War.

On conferring among ourselves, Friends and I discovered that within our group of five over-educated individuals, only one had read DQ previously, and she had read it in Hungarian -- but was game to move on to English. We each obtained a copy of Edith Grossman's recent translation of Don, apparently regarded among Quixotists as the very, very best rendering of 16th century colloquial Spanish into snappy-but-not-too-modern-sounding English. Our DQ group, comprised of a refugee from the publishing biz, a movie theatre mogul, a professor of Jewish Studies, two professional antiquers, and me, meets every few weeks over dinner to discuss a chunk of reading. We're about a third of the way through the book at this point -- which, if you haven't hefted it lately, is a real doorstop, even in paperback.

For me, the modernity of Don Quixote has been surprising. The book is unswerving in its comic violence and vulgarity -- even though I read far and wide, I still have a bias that somehow older books are more, well, genteel -- too much Thomas Hardy, presumably. DQ's main characters fart, shit, and fondle their way across southern Spain; in the name of chivalry, they engage in pointless battles with hapless travellers that result in lopped ears, cracked ribs, showers of blood, and occasional comas. After each incident, Sancho Panza, the faithful valet, ties Don Q. back into the saddle on his long-suffering horse, and follows on to the next confrontation. Sound familiar? I'm guessing that the experience of reading the book for, i.e., John Adams, was not an uplifting stroll through contemporary literature; rather, it was the reality show of the era, something akin to a bored businessman's entertainment in a Holiday Inn: he tunes into "Jackass" on MTV before crashing for the night.

Which brings me to the question: why does Professor McCullough recommend to all his audiences that they run, not walk, to pick up a copy of DQ? My experience in reading the book is similiar to the first time I saw Egon Schiele's paintings. Schiele was part of the Viennese Expressionist movement of the early 20th century; he died young, at 28, during the flu epidemic following World War I. His incredible legacy of paintings, many of which are at the Ludwig Museum in Vienna, are shocking in their violence and modernity; to me, Schiele's work seems to predict both the zeitgeist and the major art movements of the 20th century. How did he know? Or more to the point, do modern museum-goers think of Schiele when they visit a contemporary installation at the Tate, and muse that it's all been done before?

Back to Don Quixote, and why Professor M. suggests it to his audiences. As a historian, he must regularly encounter the patterns of history, in political action, popular culture, religion, philosophy. In ploughing through DQ, I can't help but think that he recommends the book as a historical lesson in patterns of culture, in encouraging the discovery that we, in the 21st century, aren't so far off in taste or interests from a Spanish readership of 1605. Or maybe he wants readers to experience a sense of Cervantes' predictive powers in both defining and parodying a modern world, as I did standing in front of Schiele's paintings in Vienna.

December 15, 2005

Janet Haven

Janet-biopic.jpgI live in Budapest, Hungary, and work for the Open Society Institute's Information Program. OSI is a private, grant-making foundation that works both in the United States and internationally, although I only work on the international side. Which is one of the reasons for writing this blog: my work takes me to the Middle East, North Africa, sub-Saharan Africa, Central Asia, Eastern Europe, and South East Asia. Three years of amazing travel has gone by without any record, aside from a few pictures on my hard drive and many more in my head.

The job itself is the other reason for starting this blog up again. I'm lucky in my work: I travel quite a bit, regularly see fascinating projects and meet extraordinary individuals. It seems worthwhile to share that information with those who might also be interested.

Within the Information Program at OSI, I run the Civil Society Communications program, which includes a capacity-buliding piece and a toolsets piece. To translate: the Information Program works to enhance the ability to access, exchange and produce information by civil society constituencies (i.e., activists, advocates in a range of areas) . Some of this work is done via policy interventions, or investment in libraries, publishing, translations. What I do is work on the problem of how it's done at a hands-on level - what are the software tools, communications tactics, and capabilities that civil society groups need in order to communicate both with each other and with their target audiences, be that the general public, national governments, or international communities. We look at issues along the lines of "what can blogs do for a human rights community in the Middle East?", "how are networking software tools relevant to public health activists working for anti-tobacco legislation in Eastern Europe?" or "what technologies will help in categorizing hundreds of human rights abuse reports?"

And to wrap up the bio part of things: I grew up in Seal Beach, California, in the heart of Orange County. Unfortunately, I skipped town before Orange County became "the O.C."; when I lived there it was known only (if equally, probably) for its phenomenal number of strip malls, its conservative (and later bankrupt) powers-that-be, and its ska scene. I wasn't into any of the above - regrettably, ska-wise - and moved on majority to SoCal's antonyn, Amherst, Massachusetts. Western Mass was different and quickly beloved, but pork stew, Urgic languages, and nations in transition called, and I moved to Hungary in the mid-1990's.

I spent one year in Hungary, and then moved on to the UK, Prague, and back to Hungary. I fit in a masters' degree at the University of Virginia (in a fantastic American Studies/Computing in the Humanities program, one of the first of its kind in those days). Post-MA, I joined two start-up software companies in Central Europe. One, Netbeans in Prague, was bought up by Sun Microsystems (and survives to this day as their open source Java IDE); the second, Uproar in Budapest, was purchased by Vivendi during Jean-Marie Messier's crazed shopping spree in 2001.

Budapest has been my home for the past six years. I live here with Favorite Husband and the Stuffed Turtle.